Categories
Perspective

On Re-reading Jane Eyre as a Grown Child

By Emilia Brookfield

St. John’s College. 7:36pm. The window looks tiredly below at St. Mary the Less. The bar is not open yet, there can only be one thing left to do, become the “reader”. 

When my reading list for 1st year English arrived those many weeks ago, the sight of Charlotte Bronte’s Jane Eyre caught my sneering eye off guard. What a field day it would have as I scorned the text for daring to exist next to Austen’s masterpiece of Emma; how could such a juvenile piece, sneered at by even the ever cynical 13-year-old Emilia, have reared its head as I emerged into the complexities of a degree level reading.

 Charlotte remains my least favourite Bronte. The turbulent, destructive (yet witty) Branwell ranks higher than her on my charts. His cartoonish scribbles of a taunting death at one’s elbow reach wit and gothic twistedness far beyond Charlotte’s reach. Bronte’s accompanying fresher’s author, Plato, rally’s that art is full of mimesis, simply layers and layers of shadow, light, and imitation; these imitations are especially apparent in Charlotte’s writing as she tries to emulate the broodiness of her sisters. Charlotte appears to only mimic those feelings that her sisters so perfectly put. When other’s swooned over the plateable gothic of Jane Eyre or the wildly stormy, yet ultimately dull, Villette, I cemented myself further away from Charlotte’s camp, declaring myself to be a firm comrade of Emily and Anne. Although perhaps in being so obstinate, I was more Eyre than met the eye…

Reluctantly I settled down to the opening chapter. The wind whips down the Bailey, swathes of tired students scurry along, the Victorian graves sigh under the weight of the leaf carcasses; I read in both this world, and the hauntingly similar world of Jane, from my window seat. 

Jane’s stubborn procession through life has become an oddly great comfort to me. Trapped in the red room alone, haunted by the whispery ghost of her uncle, I took solitude; I too am that girl afraid, in an unknown room, haunted by the spirits of those who lived before me, hiding behind the curtains of some haunted hide-n-seek.  Floating along in this strange newness, the first few weeks of freshers are full of expectation more than anything. Unknown voices rise around Jane in her new Lowood environment; threads of conversation catch her ear, yet she cannot grasp them. She is surrounded by people her own age, yet is unable to distinguish a single person.  This constant feeling of overcrowded loneliness permeates Freshers. The voice across the dining hall belongs to a physics student, yet turning you lose them, unable to connect that voice with yours in harmonious conversation beyond the parameters of the department they belong to and the papers they sat one June afternoon. 

Thrown into a tumult of new places, names stick when visuals can’t be mustered. Thornfield, Lowood, Millcote, Gateshead, Lowton – all these decidedly English names that could be anywhere. The anticipation of what these mythic places look like as you finally are asked to meet for an audition, a meeting, a seminar, in one of these made-up halls. Jane believes herself to be smart, admirable, respectable upon leaving Lowood; graduation to Thornfield displaces this. She has no idea where she is going, asks to help too often, and is naïve to the stately and suspicious goings-on. Out of depth is the best way to describe her, and as a fresher in those formative weeks. 

The window is fogging up with that Durham dampness. Only the leaves remain. My four walls creak under the weight of many maddening bodies. Am I that brooding girl? Or are we all her. Her adventures, dull and dangerous, make for a great selection of anecdotes, and is that all we can hope for at this moment? The gothic works as it takes the familiar and distorts it; you feel comfort whilst also checking behind you as you walk down the corridor. It’s that faint familiarity we hold on to when finding our ways back. Charlotte may have some merit as a trusty guide or a stoic beacon in the mist. 

Categories
Travel

How to Spend a Weekend in Barcelona

There is something about booking a last-minute trip that makes it even more perfect when you seamlessly arrive without the excessive build-up of unnecessary holiday admin. Just a few days after browsing sky scanner and stumbling across an Airbnb gem, this summer three friends and I found ourselves strolling the sun-drenched, colourful streets of Barcelona – where cultured urban life meets beach escape for the perfect city break. 

 

STAY

Budget dependent, Barcelona offers many popular hotels, apartments and hostels and if you are relatively central, it is a walking-friendly city with scooters or buses on hand if your feet need a rest.

Our Airbnb (Central Apartments Carrer de Bailèn, 125) ticked every box – affordable, comfortable, helpful owner and an all-important balcony just big enough for the four of us to squeeze round a table playing shithead, Aperol in hand – what more could four girls want on their last-minute city break?

The hotel industry is not lacking in this beautiful city, and without staying in any myself, it is hard to single out one as they all have a lot going for them with their stylish décor and relaxing rooftops. For a chic, boutique feel, Hotel Neri Relais in the heart of the Gothic Quarter caught my eye.

Meanwhile for more student priced accommodation, St Christopher’s Hostel is known as having the best atmosphere; thanks to its in-house bar known as Belushi where the cheap drinks and friendly atmosphere make for the perfect place to meet people.

 

Our Hostel, Carrer de Bailèn
Belushi's, via HostelWorld
Hotel Neri Relais, Gothic Quarter (via Trip Advisor)
EAT

As one of Spain’s most popular international hubs, the gastronomic offerings in Barcelona know no bounds, offering up every cuisine under the sun. My recommendations are to stick with the most authentic tapas spots in order to really absorb the best of the city’s flavours.

So, if you are in the market for the best patatas bravas, pan con tomate and croquetas you can find, heading to the El Born area is your best bet.

For properly authentic tapas, it does not get much better than La Cova Fumada, a successful family run restaurant dating back to 1945Despite the complete lack of a sign outside or a menu on display, this not so well-kept secret of a spot simply leaves its marketing down to the queue of hungry lunch-goers which pours out onto the street along with the palpable atmosphere from within. Coupled with charismatic staff and delicious food, not to mention the ‘bomba’ (deep fried ball of potato and spicy meat) which was created here, there is no doubt that this is a must-try spot while in Barcelona. 

Similarly, Xampanyet serves as a slice of Barcelona history with its deeply rooted family dishes contained within the colourful four walls. Its cosy atmosphere and simplistic dishes are a glimpse of tapas origins, which are joyfully washed down with a glass of cava, or Xampanyet – its own homemade version of the sparkling white wine. 

I could go on listing glorious little restaurants that dish up my all-time favourite cuisine, but for now I will just say that Cal Pep, Bormuth and Bodega la Puntual all deserve a mention too.

Alternatively, for those less fond of traditional Spanish food, Flax & Kale is the place for a highly instagrammable selection of vegan/vegetarian small plates in a stunning garden courtyard while Parking Pizza is without doubt as close as you will get to Italy while on the Spanish coast with its ultimate sourdough pizzas. 

Finally, if a hungover brunch is the order of the day, Billy Brunch’s mouth-watering menu is not one to miss while Demasié is an indulgent bakery as tasty as it aesthetic (be prepared to come across various influencers posing alongside their skinny oat matcha and vegan cinnamon bun…). Onna coffee is a lovely space to enjoy a specialty cup of coffee before you amble down Passeig de Gracia which sits just next door; setting you up with some caffeine before some retail therapy along this celebrated shopping avenue. 

DRINK

Like many European cities, Barcelona suggests a heightened view with a cocktail in hand is one of the best ways to see the city. You will be spoilt for choice with its vast array of rooftop bars on offer.

Terraza Colón at Colón Hotel is rooted in the busy streets of the Gothic quarter, yet as you ascend seven floors you reach a surprisingly calming terrace to enjoy a drink while looking onto the ancient spires of Barcelona Cathedral. Similarly, to admire Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia from a height, Terraza Ayre at Ayre Rosellón Hotel is a stunning rooftop bar offering drinks, tapas and a direct lens at Barcelona’s most iconic landmark.

Meanwhile, Bobby’s Free boasts a slightly pricier cocktail menu yet the extra pennies pay for the unique atmosphere in this barber-shop disguised speakeasy bar. Its interior transports you to a different era, and its clientele has a sense of exclusivity thanks to a password entry system… a quick Google should do it. For the full effect, visit Bobby’s Free on Thursday or Sunday for live music.

Terraza Colón via The Rooftop Guide
DANCE

Razzmatazz is the household name on Barcelona’s club scene… popular for a night out in a big group with five different rooms and enormous capacity. From sing along classics to live performers and drag queens, there is something for everyone.

Bling Bling and Jamboree are other popular choices, with the latter offering more of an intimate live blues and jazz feel.

 

VISIT
Sagrada Familia

It might seem too obvious, but whether you are a Gaudí fan or not, the iconic Sagrada Familia is simply breathtaking. Modernism, late Gothic and Art Nouveau styles effortlessly combine to form a cathedral like nothing else you have ever seen and that is only the exterior. Definitely pay the few euros it costs to enter inside; it is unbelievably beautiful and without doubt was the highlight of my trip.

Similarly, Gaudi’s architecture dominates the city with his Casa Batlló and Casa Mila apartments and unique Parque Guell – all worth seeing, and the latter makes a great trip for a picnic or even a sundowner.

Picasso Museum 

Avid museum goer or not, the Picasso Museum strikes the perfect balance of being interesting yet a suitably digestible size to fit into your schedule of sightseeing. The museum’s route takes you chronologically through Picasso’s life and different artistic eras, ending up in a colourful room full of his most iconic cubist paintings, having encountered his realism, blue period and expressionism works along the way.

 

Picasso Museum
Casa Batlló
Sagrada Familia
Palo Market Fest in Poblenou 

If there’s one thing you take from this guide, please book your Barcelona trip for the   first weekend of the month if possible. This way you can make the most of the Palo Market Fest held just north of the centre in Poblenou. A frenzy of amazing street food, shops, bars, and live music makes this an atmospheric little bubble away from the relentless pace of the city centre.

Playa de la Barceloneta 

This beach gets busy quickly, as tourists and locals alike flock to the sea breeze away from the hustle and bustle of the inner city. Still, it is a charming beach where you can work on your tan pre or post exploring the city’s hotspots.

Palo Market Fest

Side note: I have made a conscious effort to avoid labelling our little last-minute city break as a spontaneous trip. In my view, as soon as one dares to recognise an element of spontaneity, it simply no longer exists. Don’t be fooled by the endless ‘spontaneous’ (or worse ‘sponny’) trips that seem to litter themselves across social media, almost as if they are meticulously planned?






Categories
Culture

David and Goliath: The Surreal Story of Easy Life’s End

By Maggie Baring

Fans of the Leicester-based indie-pop group, Easy Life, have recently been deeply saddened by the ridiculously surreal news that the band are being sued by the large, corporate brand easyGroup for being “brand thieves”. Easy Life announced on their Instagram on the 2nd October that ‘Easy Jet are suing us for being called Easy Life’, whilst also making light of the pettiness of the claims: ‘for those of you that bought gig tickets and ended up on a budget flight to Tenerife, I apologise’. The band’s sarcasm casts light on the almost laughable situation which has formulated; a large, well established corporate brand bullying a relatively small band formed in 2017 by talented young musicians, for no apparent reason. Easy Life’s two previous albums reached no. 2 on the British charts, their top song, “Nightmares”, has 59 million streams on Spotify, and they have amassed 182k followers on Instagram. The situation that has unfolded has proved, once again, how difficult the life of a musical artist can be. The commercial flaws in the industry allow such injustices to take place, with a simple case of ‘corporate greed’ (as MP Kevin Brennan wrote), showing that the odds are continually stacked against the creative industries. Even when successful artists such as Easy Life earn enough to live comfortably off their career, it is nothing compared to the expense of defending themselves against unfounded lawsuits which would cost ‘upward of a million’ pounds in legal fees. 

Easy Life fans have greeted this news with an outpouring of love and support for the band, outrage at easyGroup’s intimidation, and suggestions to set up crowd-funding pages to finance the band’s ‘very, very strong case’ (Matravers, 5th October). The evidence that easyGroup’s case against Easy Life is unfounded is concrete and obvious, as the band formed and played their first gig in 2015, whilst easyGroup only applied for trademarking of the name, ‘Easy Life’ in 2022. Furthermore, in a similar case involving trademarking and easyGroup in July 2021, a judge ruled that ‘the word ‘easy’ is not distinctive. It is a descriptive word’, suggesting that ‘easyGroup’s claims over the ownership of the word, ‘easy’, are unfounded. Nevertheless, the band cannot afford the legal fees and must give into the ‘David versus Goliath’ situation that they find themselves in, even with the frustrating knowledge that their chances of winning the suit were high had they been able to afford to defend themselves. 
The band have had no choice but to give in to easyGroup’s bullying, and on Friday the 13th, played their final concert in London at Koko. On the same day, they released their final song as ‘Easy Life’, called ‘Trust Exercises’. The song aptly celebrates those in your life who are trustworthy enough to fall back on in moments of need. Easy Life fans have done just this – realising the words of the song in real life: ‘open up, you know you’re family | This is a trust exercise, you can fall back on me’. The bond between the fan and artist has always, for me, seemed a sacred thing. The audience places great trust in the artist when they listen to honest and open songs about difficult experiences which they may relate to. The artist’s responsibility to uphold this trust through their song writing and music must be continually recognised in order for this trust to grow in strength. This strength of support can then be used, in turn, for the artist to fall back on in their times of need. We see this on countless occasions when an artist-fan relationship has exhibited its power. When Lewis Capaldi’s mental health and Tourette’s Syndrome prohibited him from finishing his set at Glastonbury in June, so his fans finished off his set for him with rousing singing, for example. Easy Life may not be able to fight against the wealth and power of easyGroup, but the outpouring of support from their fans prove that their impact, and the market into which they are sharing their songs, is one of love and support. Easy Life’s victory is a moral one, and I know which side of the dispute I would far rather be on.

Photo credit @easylife on Instagram

Categories
Reviews Uncategorized

Review: A Little Life 

Unmasking empathy: An examination of the ethics behind Hanya Yanagihara’s A Little Life 

By Saskia Koopman

In the world of theatre certain productions possess the power to provoke lasting introspection, leaving their audience emotionally stirred or deeply affected. A recent viewing of the poignant theatrical adaptation of A Little Life fell into such a category, as Yanagihara’s tragic tale unfolded before my eyes. Indeed, in contemporary literature, as well as in their theatrical counterparts, few novels have been as polarising and emotionally taxing. As you are invited into the tormenting minds of Jude Francis and his friends, an important question comes into mind: are we as consumers of art inadvertently glorifying, or even fetishising trauma?

A glimpse into the plot: 

For those unfamiliar with the novel or play, Hanya Yanagihara’s narrative centres around four friends as they navigate the textures and complexities of life in New York. However, it becomes evident that Jude stands apart from the rest of the group. Despite the translated French title ‘Une vie comme les autres’ which reads as ‘A life like any other’, Jude’s life is a world apart from those of his peers; he suffers from trauma, a haunting past life, and an excruciatingly guilty conscience. He harms himself. 

Ivo Van Hove’s stage adaptation is palpably faithful to Yanagihara’s novel, as he examines the emotional intricacies of the characters and the struggles of their respective psyches. In an attempt to navigate the characters’ shifting perspectives, the omniscient narrative voice unflinchingly immerses itself in the harrowing past of a broken Jude St. Francis. In doing so, the play doesn’t hesitate to demonstrate the harsh and often distressing events which Jude endures, making this unflinching production both strong and challenging. This disturbing exploration of love, friendship, and its bounds in the face of unimaginable suffering and harm leaves its audience visibly moved by this raw depiction of trauma and pain; Yanagihara’s story is a difficult read and an even harder watch.

The production’s unswerving focus on the intricacies of Jude’s past spark a heated debate on the artistic portrayal of trauma, and essentially, it is this very depiction of the darkness which permeates his life, wherein lies the crux of the issue. Audiences, emotionally drained as they grapple with the intensity of the narrative, have been quick to label this story a “misery-soaked epic” (Slate Audio Book Club), accusing its author not only of lacking artistic taste but also of dangerous moral failing. Her refusal to sugar-coat her narrative makes the plot too much for some to bear, inviting allegations of creating an unfair depiction of trauma in which she violates the canons of literary taste.

While the intention behind this depiction of trauma undoubtedly seeks to elicit empathy and understanding, perhaps almost serving as cathartic, it is crucial to consider how such an unfiltered portrayal of psychological trauma could unintentionally slip into the realm of inadvertent fetishization. Empathy is one of art’s vital consequences, allowing us to connect and share experiences, contributing to our understanding of the human condition. That being said, concerns arise when in this particular case, the depiction of trauma becomes a form of entertainment in itself, potentially even lending a voyeuristic experience for the audience. Certainly, in A Little Life, readers and viewers are invited to witness the most unthinkably intimate and painful aspects of Jude’s narrative. While some may deem such scenes as fostering empathy and raising awareness about the plethora of lasting effects of trauma, it comes as no surprise that others may worry about our unconscious fascination with suffering. To put it bluntly, the line between empathetic engagement and voyeuristic curiosity here may have become slightly blurred, especially when the narrative lingers on such distressing content. 

Yanagihara’s work interestingly raised questions concerning the allure of suffering in literature and art; is there truly a tendency to fetishize trauma due to its exploration of heightened emotional experience? And ultimately, does our fascination with suffering stem from an innate desire to feel more deeply, or perhaps more authentically? 

Categories
Poetry

The Waltz

By Lianna De Bartolo

Your denim pools out on the hardwood
As you fall to your knees
Tantalus sinks, for my hair has been washed
And the beds of my fingernails, cleaned
In rapture you ask of my waltz through the morning
Entranced by vague visions of dish soap and lace
And how might I cut o’er the noise of your fantasy,
Borne still by the hopes of your wide-eyed bookcase?
Our carvings upon decayed coasters, worn thin
Exchanged in the small screen’s pink sanguine glow,
Bear imagery repeated, and through tedium born
Though notions of struggle your veiled eyes forego  
Then I shall smile at the heroine whose lines I’ll recite,
Though pernicious be the flowers that bloom in this light.

Categories
Perspective

The Durham Panty Thief

Summer term

Going into the summer term of my second year at Durham, I anticipated scenes of warmth, freedom, and partying.

As I stared out the window of my LNER train from Kings Cross to Durham with Taylor Swift on full volume, I dreamt of walking to Tesco not wearing my thermals, two jumpers and a goose-down puffer coat. Waking up with my only decision being whether I have sushi or sashimi for lunch. Days spent on the racecourse sipping enough Somersbies to be entertained by a football. Playing games of “snog marry avoid” whilst my slightly intoxicated friend chauffeurs me in their VW Golf back from Tynemouth beach. Screaming, “I’m loving angels instead” whilst enough alcohol bubbles through me that I start to question whether DJ Dave B is actually attractive. These were the scenes I imagined. It’s safe to say I was fairly surprised to find myself sitting in a Durham Magistrates court, putting forward my witness statement against a man who was being charged with stealing my knickers. 

I was not only surprised because all the knickers I own are M&S high-waisted women’s briefs, meaning they’re not only undesirable for anyone other than my own comfort, but they’re also probably less valuable than the one-use plastic bags half the student population seem to “accidentally forget to scan” at the Tesco self-checkout. I couldn’t work out whether it was more surprising anyone wanted to steal them, or that the police had time to charge someone with such a low-value theft. Nonetheless, there I found myself on the 26th of May, in Peterlee’s magistrates’ court, telling the judge I was rather upset that David Ian Wales had stolen my knickers.

Storytime

This unexpected situation all started when I was sitting in the TLC writing an essay in May and got a random phone call: “Hello, Kitty, this is the Durham police. We need you to come down to our office immediately.” These are not particularly settling words when you don’t remember walking home from Babylon the night before. Luckily, they quickly reassured me I wasn’t some Exeter-like cretin who accidentally stole a child on the way back from a night out thinking it was Yoda – but was rather a suspected victim of theft. They refused to comment on the details of the theft until they saw me in person.  I jumped out my TLC seat and ran the fastest km splits of my life to the Police station whilst simultaneously searching up my car insurance details. My red golf, appropriately named Valentine, was my only possession I thought could possibly be worth stealing. I arrived, darting through the police station doors, demanding if my Valentine had been stolen. The police officer was rather baffled.

The PC sat me down to ask if I recognised various items found in a man’s house in Gilesgate. The first piece of evidence, “250 Snappy Snaps printed photos’” found nestled in a black box underneath the man’s bed, alongside an ordering receipt with my name on it. I looked at the photos, instantly recognising my gap yah Snappy Snaps collection I had been looking for since January. The PC insisted we look through the entire folder to confirm they were mine. My heart rate doubled. 

Me eating a jamon baguette on the floor of a Venetian chapel; me tactically squatting in every corner of Europe; me pretending the Leaning Tower of Pisa was my massive cock; me drunkenly posing with the Barcelonan Policemen as if they were my gigolos; my friends pretending to give each other fellatio in the confession box of the Sistine chapel. 

Yes, yes, yes. They’re all mine.

When documenting my gap yah travels, it’s safe to say I had not prepared for them to end up in a police forensic investigation wallet and to be sat with an officer by my side identifying each one as mine. Luckily, he only seemed mildly phased. 

We then moved on to the “main criminal damage.” The officer said this piece of evidence was “too large for the forensic investigation wallets.” I was taken to the next-door room to view it. Of course, this couldn’t fit into an investigation wallet. There lay piles of thousands and thousands of pants. This Police investigation room looked more stocked than a Victoria’s Secret Warehouse. 

Thongs, hipsters, tangas, cheekies, boyshorts.

Blue, pink, black, grey, orange, ambiguous.

Ann Summers, Calvin Klein, Gucci, Gap, Tesco.

Spotty, striped, seamless, stained … at least David Wales was not picky. 

For panty sniffers, this was Willy Wonka’s factory. For most, this was an apocalyptic graveyard of generations of Durham girls’ pants.

The PC ruffled through them to reach what he believed to be mine. He picked out the ugliest pants of them all, some high-waisted women’s briefs, with my school’s name tapes hanging down. For some, a uniformed PC handing you back your knickers could feel like living the start of a kinky low-budget Hollywood drama; for me, this was little more than a public exposé of my greatest hidden pleasure … “Oh yes, the massive granny pants are mine too.”

After much embarrassment, I was eventually dismissed from this rather traumatic trip to the police station, returning to the TLC questioning whether the portobello mushrooms I had for lunch were, in fact, magic. An Outlook email from the Durham Constabulary shortly confirmed this was not a hallucinogenic trip, detailing the case and asking if I was available next week to provide a witness statement in court. 

So that’s the story of how I found myself on the 26th May, in Peterlee magistrates court, telling the judge I was rather upset that David Ian Wales had stolen my knickers.

Court day 26th May 2023

It was my first ever court case, so my nerves woke me early. I showered and put on my smartest clothes – a white linen shirt and some black suit trousers. To be safe, I was, of course, commando. 

I was driven to court promptly by another victim’s fuming parents, who had driven 8 hours from their home to bring their daughter justice. Annoyingly, David Wales was less concerned about timings and arrived 5 hours late, with no legal representatives. Thankfully, however, he was not dressed from head to toe in knickers; instead, he was in a biker jacket and jeans.  After brief discussions, the court concluded that his panty-thieving was too extensive to be dealt with at a magistrates court, so the case was raised to a higher court. 

Three months later, on the 12th of September 2023, David Ian Wales pleaded guilty to all charges at the Durham County court and will spend the next 3 years in prison. David Ian Wales was finally, well and truly, caught with his pants down. 

Categories
Travel

‘Placeless travelling’ – A guide to Lisbon through poetry

 

By Jake Henson.

Recalling my recent trip to Lisbon, Portugal, and reading three of the City’s most influential poets, I consider some of the peculiarities and problems of modern-day travelling. 

Lisbon has boasted huge popularity with travellers in recent years. For the high-speed and low-budget lifestyle of a student, a September trip to Portugal’s capital, the ‘coolest city in the world’, and the dreamlike surf town of Ericeria felt like it would be the perfectly tailored trip. With the Lisboa region saturating internet travel trends and recommendations from friends, partially due to the ease of visiting the city cheaply and the liveliness of its bars, I had thought very little about booking the trip for some travelling in September before returning to University. But it was exactly this way of thinking that caused, whilst I was standing in front of the ominous tomb of poet Lúis de Camões in Lisbon’s Jerónimos Monastery, a mental crisis. 

After days of adrenaline-fuelled surfing in Ericeria, eating in Lisbon’s diverse restaurant offerings and partying in the Barrio Alto district, the blank poet’s tomb acted as a stark reminder that the place I had travelled to extended unimaginably beyond what I could actually experience. I don’t think this feeling is unique as a 21st century tourist- it is becoming easier to reduce travel to a series of physical sensations that are unconnected to our surroundings: the taste of food, the dopamine hit of taking a photograph, the warmth of the sun or the spray of salt on the face. 

I realised that I was doing what I now call ‘placeless travelling’, where people (often of my generation and spurred on by trends) ‘visit’ a place purely through a sequence of experiences, rather than connecting those experiences to culture and history. Lisbon, as a city that does best at sensory overload, invites this kind of travelling, but increasingly places and cultures can be commodified and consumed faster and easier than ever, with generic photographs taken to document travels in what is essentially an electronic picture-book. 

‘O rebanho é os meus pensamentos      

E os menus pensamentos são todos sensações

Penso com os olhos e com os ouvidos 

E com as mãos e os pés

E com o nariz e a boca’

‘The flocks are my thoughts

And all my thoughts are sensations.

I think with my eyes and my ears,

And with my hands and my feet,

And with my nose and my mouth.

The extract from ‘Sou um guardador de rebanhos’ (‘I am the keeper of flocks’) by Fernando Pessoa, perhaps Lisbon’s most celebrated poet, echoes my considerations on ‘placelessness’ and reliance on the senses with an eerie precision. So I decided to put words to the pictures, and uncover some of the voices behind Lisbon’s culture. Poetry seemed most apt for this; not least because it was Camões’ art, but because I believed the local idiosyncrasies of poetry would challenge our obsession with generic trends and photograph tourism. What I didn’t expect was for Lisbon’s poets to share my own thoughts almost exactly.

 

Ericeria

The absent-minded atmosphere that surrounded my first stop, the seaside town Ericeira, was conducive for reading Lisbon’s best sea-poetry. Beach and reef breaks from the famous Praia da Foz do Lizandro and Praia do Sul give the world’s most ambitious surfers much to play with, and I loved the gentle thrill of looking at the waves in the morning from a small surf hostel on Rua Floréncio Granate overlooking the beach. However, I couldn’t help but find a tension between the daring repetition of the surfers, reliving the same feeling over different waves, and the voyaging fishing-boats, full of the potential for exploration.

‘E já no porto da ínclita Ulisseia,

Cum alvoroço nobre e cum desejo

[…]

As naus prestes estão; e não refreia

Temor nenhum o juvenil despejo,

Porque a gente marítima e a de Marte

Estão para seguir-me a toda a parte.

 

Pelas praias vestidos os soldados

De várias cores vêm e várias artes,

E não menos de esforço aparelhados

Para buscar do mundo novas partes.   

All is ready in Ulysses’ harbour

With a noble clamour of desire

[…]

The ships at luff; and not a fear

Impedes my youthful career,

Because sailor and soldier

Are ready to guide me everywhere

 

The soldiers in all their finery gather

On the beach, each colour its own art,

Each with force fitted to further

Search the world – its unknown part.   

In Camões’ ‘A partida para a Índia’ (‘Leaving Lisbon for India’), the poet holds in intimate proximity both the confidence of static, land-bound youth and the impending, aged and unknown voyage. As when observing Ericeira’s surfers, there is a feeling of youthful invulnerability, with the ship yet unused and the poem’s voice boasting that ‘e não refreia / Temor nenhum o juvenil despejo’ (‘not a fear / impedes /evicts my youthful career’). However, this confidence is tempered and ironised. The stanza-ending couplet of ‘marte / parte’ gives the rhyme a songlike quality which grates with the gravitas of the reference to the epic Ulysses, signifying the hardships of journeying, and the poem’s clarity of sound is betrayed by the half-rhyme on ‘desejo / despejo’. Rhyming the passion of ‘desejo’ (‘desire’) with ‘despejo’ (with connotations of forceful eviction) places the reality of being cast out (to sea) directly next to the burning, pre-voyage feelings of youth.

There was something in Louis de Camões’ verse that captured the spirit of the Portuguese coastline and my experience of Ericeira. While my attempts at riding waves were always exhilarating, I felt like Camões’ voice of youth, trying to ‘consume’ an ocean I was yet to understand. In the cobbled cafés and squares of Ericeira’s pale streets brawn-filled teenagers mix with the descendants of ‘navegadores’; Portuguese seafarers who travelled from their homeland on wooden ships. Standing and looking over Praia dos Pescadores to the horizon at Praia do Norte, Camões’ two states seem to exist physically, as the tumbling beginner is framed by the distant expert, whose arcing surfboard marks a mastery of the sea that mocks inexperience. Asking a local fisherman where to surf was fairly decisive: ‘speak to those who know the sea.’ It was a reminder that trying to squeeze the experience out of a place, as so many adrenaline-chasers do, doesn’t work without a connection to the place itself. The verses of Camões, who was instrumental in furthering Portugal’s identity as a seafaring nation and famously experienced a real shipwreck, allowed me beyond the sea’s foam and salt-spray to some of the past, present and mythical voyages that call from it.

 

Lisbon

Arriving in Portugal’s capital, and in the poetry of Cesário Verde and Fernando Pessoa, there continues a weaving between sensory experience and culture, and an abstraction of place. Staying in a small apartment in Barrio Alto and leaning out of the window, you can become consumed by senses- low throbbing music, the visual satisfaction of the undulating cobble-stones, colourful washing lines bridging the streets and smells rising from restaurants that hide behind graffiti-covered walls. There seems to be a general willingness to give in to sensations: if you walk down Rua do Alecrim to the station Cais do Sodre, people line the street drinking, smoking, speaking and dancing, connected by the tram-line and falling gradient.

 

‘In Lisbon there are a few restaurants or eating houses […which] frequently contain curious types whose faces are not interesting but who constitute a series of digressions from life.’ –

 

Fernando Pessoa, from The Book of Disquiet, trans. Alfred MacAdam:

‘Porque tão longe ir pôr o que está 

perto –

O dia real que vemos? No mesmo 

hausto

Em que vivemos, morreremos. Colhe

O dia, porque és ele.     

Why go so far for what is so 

near –

The actual day that we can see? In a single gasp

We live and die. So seize the day,

For the day is what you are.    

 

After Camões’ sober appeal to ‘search the world’ and shun childlike abandon, Pessoa’s verse seemed to draw me right back to the hedonistic, ‘placeless’ traveller, and Pessoa’s poetry reflects far more my initial thoughts on 21st century travelling. Like the young surfers in Ericeria, people are ‘digressions from life’, ‘not interesting’ but held in perpetual separation from ‘life’, or Camões’ idea of the voyage. In the short poem, ‘Uns, com os olhos postos no passado’ (‘With one eye on the past’) , there is an appeal to live not in a specific place or for a journey, but in the present moment. Living in Largo do Carmo from 1905 to 1920, Pessoa almost predicted Lisbon’s future popularity as place for revelling in the immediate experience of a place; time collapses as ‘No mesmo hausto / Em que vivemos, morreremos’ (‘In a single gasp / we live and die’) and the singular experience of the day becomes assimilated with the reader of the poem.

My final trip to the Cathedral, Tower and Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument at Belem, and reading Cesário Verde’s ‘O sentimento dum ocidental’ solidified the city’s oscillation between experience and culture. Both the poem and Jerónimos monastery pay homage to the dead Camões, and so reading Cesário’s poem in front of Camões tomb meant that I was connected physically and figuratively to the city’s cultural heritage. In direct opposition to Pessoa, Cesário’s sense of place is invested both in history, referencing the Camões Monument in Chiado, and in the future; by the waterfront, the poem’s voice considers the modernity of foreign cities. In two simple stanzas, Cesário seems to capture our three poet’s voices, and their respective conceptions of place:

‘A espaços, iluminam-se os andares,

E as tascas, os cafés, as tendas, os estancos

Alastram em lençol os seus reflexos brancos;

E a lua lembra o circo e os jogos malabares.

 

Duas igrejas, num suadoso largo,

Lançam a nódoa negra e fúnebre do clero:

Nelas esfumo um ermo inquisidor severo,

Assim que pela História eu me aventuro e alargo

‘Apartment lights come on in clusters,

And the taverns, the cafés, the tabacs, and stalls

Spread a sheet of white reflections against the walls

The moon reminds me of circus jugglers.

 

Two churches on a heart-rending square

Project the black and doleful stain of the Order:

I shade in a cruel, reclusive inquisitor,

And move through history, expanding as I dare.

Cesário collects Camões’ participation in a historic voyage, (‘move / adventure through history’) Pessoa’s ‘placeless’, anonymous experience of the city-scape (white reflections) and his own sense of the city’s cultural monuments (two churches) through the stanzas. Amazingly, I could read the presence of the three poets in Cesário’s work, each providing a different perspective on what it means to travel or explore a place. Read side by side, I had thought that uncovering some of Lisbon’s literary voices would simply give my trip some context. But it was never that simple- whether it was the in-the-moment experience of the sun-kissed Ericeria or the Barrio Alto nights, discovering the cultural mastery of the waves and the mythical voyage, or gazing at historical monuments to ground a place in history; each was, as in the poetry, a different method of travelling. I was initially disappointed with my (and my generation’s) probable reliance on ‘placeless’ experiences, but Lisbon’s poetry suggests that this view of travelling is probably as old as the city itself. simply begs the question,

 

When we visit somewhere, should we value in it the discovery of its subtlety, culture and history, logged in the mind like a fact-absorbing history book, or our immediate explosive experience, with all its sensory and emotional excitement?

Categories
Reviews

The Dutch Master Who Kept His Ear: A Journey into the Life of Vermeer

 The Dutch Master Who Kept His Ear: A Journey into the Life of Vermeer

An insight into the exhibition of the year – Vermeer, at the Rijkmuseum, Amsterdam. 

By Emily Mills

 

Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. Credit: Juan Garcia Hinojosa.

There’s no question that you’ve come across the Dutch artist Van Gogh. I will be venturing into the mastery of another Dutch painter who was marginally less unhinged and died with his two ears still intact. His name was Vermeer.

Even if you haven’t heard the name Vermeer, Girl with a Pearl Earring will probably mean something. It is one of thirty seven remaining masterpieces of the 17th century Dutch master. Twenty eight of these works were displayed in a monumental exhibition at the Rijksmuseum of Amsterdam earlier this year. This triumph of an exhibition saw the largest ever number of his paintings in one place. It was likely a larger number than Vermeer ever saw at any one time. It broke records; 450,000 tickets sold out by the second day of the exhibition, and visitors from 113 countries transported themselves to the 1600s Dutch Golden age through his work. I was fortunate enough to be one of them.

The Girl with a Pearl Earring, 1665. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam.

I entered the exhibition alone. Something about a main character moment or whatever. Admittedly, this wasn’t the initial objective. I tried to push my friends to buy the rapidly selling tickets to this miraculous show, given we were to be in Amsterdam anyway. Alas, their leisurely planning wasn’t to be tolerated by the rapid sell-out time. Unless they were up for paying a mere £2,000 for resale, which they weren’t. While I was being transported to 17th century Dutch mastery through rich pigmented oil paints ruminating on the allegorical meanings of each painting, my companions were tackling some high-brow culture…known also as The Heineken Experience. This obviously made for a fantastic debrief. I was bubbling over with Dutch Golden Age inspired excitement while their bubbles had taken the more literal form of limitless Heineken beer.

 

From this you’ve probably judged that this was a boring decision on my part. And a fair judgement that might be. It’s not often you get the chance to sip free lager to your heart’s content while admiring the Amsterdam skyline. Perhaps the only occasions you find yourself looking at art is when dragged around by a family member or partner. It’s a test of endurance until you make a polite excuse to escape to the safety of the gift shop. Anything to stop them from droning on about the difference between impressionism and expressionism. Well, I’d like to reassure you that the Rijksmuseum’s logistical feat was anything but conceited.

 

The exhibition led visitors through a series of rooms painted in dark mauves and blues. Nearly all of Vermeer’s paintings have a hallmark feature of light entering from the left-hand side. The curatorial decision to accentuate this light with the dark walls was simple but effective. There’s a poetic simplicity that flows throughout his work. The subjects, often female, are absorbed in thought. The viewer is left to interpret the elusive emotions in each scene, or otherwise relish the picture-perfect intricacy. Vermeer’s attention to detail was of such quality that the art world speculates his use of the camera obscura – a precursor to modern day cameras – to create this realism. This is among other debates surrounding the Dutch master.

View of Delft and The Little Street at the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. Credit: Melissa Schriek for The New York Times

Of the thirty seven Vermeer paintings in existence, only thirty four are unanimously attributed to his hand. The contested oeuvres may have been done by a student of the artist, tasked with mimicking his style. All three of these were featured in the twenty eight piece exhibition.

This would have been twenty nine pieces, had the British not done what we do best – make excuses for not returning masterpieces that don’t belong to us. English Heritage refused to loan The Guitar Player to the exhibition, claiming the painting was too fragile. As it happens, they didn’t make this excuse when loaning it to the National Gallery in 2018. Despite many pleas from the Rijksmuseum and an assessment that any risk of damage would be negligible, the loan was refused.

 

Vermeer’s death in 1675 left his family in copious amounts of debt. In true Catholic fashion, the faith he converted to before marriage, he fathered fifteen children. Clearly this newfound zeal carried through into other areas of his life, as he was equally as partial to childbearing as he was to buying expensive oil paints. The bright white paint used for Girl with a Pearl Earring was sourced in the Peak District. Though necessary, it is paradoxical that Vermeer spent nearly the entirety of his life in his hometown of Delft yet had such international sources for his materials. While breathtaking, I felt that Girl with a Pearl Earring was humbled at the Rijksmuseum. Even Tracy Chevalier, author of the 1999 novel Girl with a Pearl Earring, which has film, play and radio adaptations, admitted that the subject painting was no longer her favourite. She revealed this following her visit to the 2023 exhibition. The small and unassuming painting was not placed on any pedestal nor given its own room but sat amongst others. It pushed viewers to relish the mastery of all his paintings without singling out that which people know the most about. Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring has been mimicked and reproduced throughout popular culture, but still was not the face of the exhibition. This was a particular feature of the exhibition that I appreciated, allowing me to enjoy the wonders of The Milkmaid and Allegory of the Catholic Faith. The Milkmaid spearheaded Vermeer’s series of paintings of portraits in domestic settings. The scene captures a vibrantly adorned subject who is motionless in her intent focus. There is a spellbinding contrast between her concentration and the pour of milk from the jug she holds. Perhaps the paintwork, or perhaps the mystical nonchalance of the character in this work enchanted me.

Milkmaid, 1660. Credit: Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

This exhibition was an impeccable celebration of an artist who was little known in his time. It is only in retrospect that Vermeer is recognised as one of the many wonders of the Dutch Golden Age, alongside others like Rembrandt who flourished in the era. He has finally received due credit for his sensational artistry with a triumphant exhibition. There is even a publicly accessible exploration of his works, narrated by Stephen Fry, on the Rijksmuseum website.

 

So, if ever given the choice, I’d urge you to choose Vermeer over beer.






Categories
Poetry

Kay

By Joseph Clayton

Among the breeze,

Twisting its way between

A tangle of pebbles, windswept

A snatch of laughter 

Half-chuckle, half-wheeze,

Among that dry, ceaseless wind,

Waves hastened and broken

Reflect the evening sun, 

A glimpse of merriment,

The glint in your eye.

I fancy, for a moment, 

You appear before me,

Playing cards in hand

And at once I am 

Twelve again, and it is raining,

Tohunga Crescent slick beneath the deluge. 

‘Last card!’, 

and you smile, 

Bella triumphant as ever —

The card shark with her 

Tiny crown of curls,

We will head 

Down the bay in just a moment 

Once I retrieve my sandals 

From under the deck, 

And you have finished 

Your chapter.

And then you are gone,

And as I thread my way

Back through the rocks,

Buffeted by that

Dry, ceaseless wind,

I can see Karl in his outhouse

My sandals, still under the deck,

Unretrieved. 

You were a certainty,

Timeless, 

And now, as the wind tears around me

I am unable to cry.

Categories
Perspective

Death Traps 

By Henry Worsley

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a copy of Robert Pirsig’s Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance. It is a strange and whimsical book, constantly oscillating between long, detailed passages which explain the literal nuts and bolts of motorbikes, and equally long, meta and open-ended spiels that dive into the philosophy behind a bike, how it can serve as a tool not just to dissect man’s relationship with machines, but also the machinery of the human mind in and of itself – why a motorbike is both a bold expression of Romanticism, but also of cold, straight logic.

I started reading Pirsig’s book in Florence, towards the end of my own two-thousand kilometre journey on two wheels. I had set out from London a month earlier, in the dead of night, my Kawasaki GPZ loaded with virtually everything I owned, or would need, for the next year: two pairs of jeans, three shirts, some books, some tools, a battered sleeping bag and a can of chain oil. The destination was Rome, where I would be living for the next ten months. I wanted no motorways, no toll roads – just the back lanes that trace the ancient pilgrim path to the Eternal City: the Via Francigena.

The most challenging part of this journey would doubtless be the Alps. My bike is twenty-four years-old; it is carburated, with a manual choke, no ABS, no traction control, no fuel gauge (when it starts to splutter, you twist a petcock below your left knee to open the reserve tank, like a Spitfire). It is, essentially, an old-world piece of engineering – and I’m no mechanic. So as I began to ascend towards the Cime de la Bonette, the highest road in France and the second highest in Europe, I wasn’t sure what was going to happen.

Why ride a motorbike? That’s the essential question Pirsig poses to his readers. To look fucking cool is one answer, and it’s an answer that any honest owner of a bike would give. Motorbikes just look cool; they make you feel macho, powerful, sexy. But there is more to it than just the testosterone and the adrenaline – motorbikes are also beautiful, almost magical; they feel somehow alive, which is why people give them names. That’s one way of looking at them, as hunks of steel and alloy and copper wire that seem to have some sort of soul, yet they are still just hunks of steel and alloy and copper wire – and this is also the point, that motorbikes are the product of a ruthless, exact science. So in this sense they represent both schools of thought – the Romantic and the Rational; Lord Byron and Nikola Tesla.

Sure enough, as the Kawasaki and I gradually climbed from one thousand metres, to fifteen hundred, and finally to two thousand and above, I started to feel this thing that I was sitting on change – to pant and gasp for air. The revs at idle halved, barely turning over; I was afraid that if I stopped then the bike would stall too, and I would end up stranded in the lunar wasteland near the summit – a nothingness, an airless void, grey and snowless peaks, the odd Maginot bunker emerging from the rockface.

Another reason you should ride a bike: it’s terrifying.

Motorbikes are death traps, or at the very least, they make death much more probable in an accident. When I rented a bike in Jamaica, a group of guys in their twenties approached me and, eyeing up my sweet new ride, started pulling up their trouser legs or taking their shirts off: ‘this, from a wheelie’, one said, indicating a missing chunk of flesh in his leg; ‘this, head-on collision, smaaash!’, said another, running his finger across his chest, where a deep pale scar crossed it like a lightning bolt.

Three thousand metres. You reach the summit of the Cime de la Bonette, and you feel like Zeus, jacked and omnipotent. Looking out over the vast, wonderful ruggedness of the Alps, smelling the clean air, thin and diluted, deliciously crisp, you appreciate the meaning of another word often associated with motorcycles: freedom. That star-spangled, bald-eagle kind of freedom, that freedom to ride wherever you want whenever you want – but not only that, because that would be no different to a car. When you’re in a car, and you’re looking out of a window, you may as well be staring at a television – you don’t sense anything. On a bike you feel the wind, the heat from the tarmac, the vibrations of the engine, you sense your whole centre of gravity shift as you take a corner. Italo Calvino wrote about the concept of the ‘infinite city’, the boundless metropolis, a city which he argued the modern world had already produced. By taking trains, planes and automobiles, we put ourselves in little teleportation capsules from urban island to urban island – the motorcycle is an escape from that, it is an exposure to the places in between.

From three thousand metres that sense of freedom becomes sharply defined: you see a matchstick town ten or so miles away, you hop back on the bike, and after a few turns you return to that zen state Pirsig was talking about – the bike disappears, you’re flying, and you feel fucking cool.