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Travel

An Insider’s Guide to Edinburgh​

An Insider's Guide to Edinburgh

The view of Edinburgh from Calton Hill

By Tilly Pern

Whether you are visiting uni mates, escaping for a romantic getaway, or simply wanting to broaden your cultural horizons, Edinburgh is the one for you! Offering all the benefits of a buzzing big city whilst also having easy access to the mountains and beach, Scotland’s capital is a must-see destination. Uni student and third-year resident, Tilly Pern gives her tried and tested recommendations for your next weekend getaway.

Kimpton Charlotte Square

Where To Stay

As a student in the city, I have only experienced the ‘luxury’ of student accommodation and flats! Although, when my parents visited, they stayed at The Kimpton, located on Charlotte Square. A modern boutique hotel, with slick service and stylish hospitality. The hotel is linked to a Lebanese restaurant Baba (which I highly recommend!). However, my advice on where to look for accommodation would be on Airbnb; the beauty of this is the variety of different options, whatever your preferences are. Areas to search for include: Stockbridge, New Town, Royal Mile, and Old Town!

Where To Eat

 

Chez Jules

An inexpensive romantic dining experience. The French-style restaurant’s décor while simple, has character, with low lighting accentuated by candles carved into old wine bottles. The interiors capture the perfect French vision. Expect a relaxed experience, with specials, wines, and cocktails scribbled all over the blackboard walls and staff rushing around to heighten the atmosphere and ensure glasses are kept full! 

*What not to miss: LUNCH! Chez Jules is popular with students for its renowned inexpensive lunch deal!

 

Urban Angel

Right in the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town, a perfect spot for a meet-up or a much-needed hungover chinwag! Urban Angel has become an institution for brunch in the city. It has an extensive brunch menu ranging from Eggs Benedict to more recent favourites such as Smoothie Bowls, as well as an array of different smoothies to cure that Sunday morning hangover. Urban Angel prides itself on being “Independent, free range, seasonal, and use local sourcing.” 

 

The Sheep’s Heid

Scotland’s oldest serving and beautifully restored pub allows for a more upmarket, stylish, traditional pub experience. The best way to dine is post a walk in the fresh air around the famous Arthur’s Seat. The pub is situated at the foot of the landmark and offers a hearty Sunday roast at the end of a delightful week. If you know you’re visiting the city – make sure to get this one booked in advance! 

Chez Jules
Urban Angel

Where To Go Out

St. Vincent

AKA “The Vinnie” as it is locally known. Lies on the boundary of Stockbridge and New Town. This was first discovered on a wintery walk down Circus Lane during the lockdown period when The Hatch Bar was open, and the smell of mulled wine poured out into the neighbouring streets. This little spot has a rustic and old-fashioned feel, undoubtedly the perfect place for a first-date drink, with a variety of quirky cocktails to help you get to know one another. 

 

Fingers

Fingers is hands down the perfect venue for a spontaneous get-together, no matter your age. This piano bar is a place one may stumble into with no plan in hand, definitely after a few drinks at a dinner party or celebrating a birthday! All gathered around the piano, singing along to some old-time classics with your best friends is a core memory not easily lost. The friendly, amazingly talented Pianists allow requests, offering the chance for your favourites to be sung from the top of your voices! 

 

Sneaky Pete’s

Sneaky Pete’s is a favourite Edinburgh nightclub located in Cowgate, featured in the ‘World’s Best Clubs’ list with some giant venues. With the decks on the dancefloor and the capacity being 100 people, it is a one-room intimate clubbing experience. You are bound to bump into someone you know. DJs commonly request a return set at Sneaky Pete’s and many name it one of their favourite places to play! 

 

Sneaky Pete's
St. Vincent

Sneaky Pete's
Wellington Coffee

Where To Grab a Coffee

 

Wellington Coffee

Hidden on the corner of the busy George and Hanover Street intersect, lies Wellington Coffee. It is the perfect place for a good on-the-go coffee, walking to university or work. Wellington’s surroundings are minimal, with only a few tables and chairs inside. But, when the sun shines, tables spill out onto the streets making you feel part of the bustling morning commute. This is the best way to kick-start your day. 

 

 

Milkman

 

Milkman

Milkman has become TikTok famous for its unique story. Opening in 2015, the owner, Mark, transformed an old candy shop into a comfortable and trendy coffee shop. After chatting with the passionate baristas, it is inspiring to hear how they speak of taking extra steps toward a fairer and more sustainable future. Using specifically selected coffee from a locally sourced roastery. As much as we all love coffee, the icing on the cake, quite literally, is the selection of sweet treats that Milkman has to offer. The perfect coffee pairing is a slice of cake, sourced from one of the local bakeries!

Milkman

 

Cowan and Sons

An independent family-owned and run café in Stockbridge. It is for walk-ins only or takeaways from the stained-glass window (en route for a walk in Inverleith Park!) With big windows and rustic décor, it makes for a bright and vibrant lunch spot with a comfortable feel. The young but experienced team presents an energetic and friendly atmosphere to the café. 

What To See

 

Calton Hill

Calton Hill is home to the National Monument, Nelson Monument. Located at the end of Princes Street, one of Edinburgh’s prominent hills with some of the best views of the city. This is the perfect place for a picnic or a couple of drinks with a group of friends. On a clear day, views to the West stretch all the way to the Forth Bridge and across to the East to Portobello Beach. Calton Hill is the best place to find your bearings in the City.

 

Portobello Beach

From the top of Calton Hill, looking to the east coast – Portobello Beach can be seen. The beach is a short drive from the city centre, only taking 15-20 minutes. There is also a very quick and efficient bus route! Portobello is great for a short sea breeze walk, with the beachfront offering many options for food and drink. One of my favourites is The Beach House for when the weather is just too chilly to brave the outdoors. But, if it is ever so slightly more bearable, a takeaway from ShrimpWreck should not be missed! From Lobster Rolls to Crispy Squid to your classic Fish and Chips, there are a number of options to please everyone. 

Portobello Beach

ShrimpWreck
Portobello Beach

Where To Shop

 

W. Armstrong & Son

W.Armstrong & Son lies bang in the heart of Edinburgh and is now established as one of the UK’s oldest and most loved vintage clothes shops. A wide variety of unique pieces, where you are bound to find a preloved item ready for a new owner! There are three shops situated around the city. The talented team strives to find one-of-a-kind pieces ‘hand-picked for their timeless look’. This is a very popular choice among the students at Edinburgh University. 

 

I.J. Mellis

This is one of my all-time favourite shops! Mellis Cheesemongers offers so much more than just cheese. This deli-style shop is definitely a treat, with a huge selection of cheeses, cold meats, olives, and jams, to name a few! With a few shops located across Edinburgh, my favourite being in Stockbridge. When on a weekend walk to Stockbridge market, it is just too hard to resist popping my head into this heavenly store. A must-get is the slithers of succulent cured ham, wafer-thin but thick with flavour, where the portion sizes are chosen by you and cut by the Slicer on the counter right before you!

 

Grow Urban

Plants, Botanical Goods, Coffee. Here is where I bought my first plant at university to attempt to transform my student flat! This friendly and picture-worthy shop is located just opposite the St Vincent pub, so you must pop in before you go for a drink. There is a variety of different plants tailored to all, to keep your space green. Ranging from indoor plants to outdoor plants to dog-friendly plants to plant care and many little gifts for plant lovers! As you’re browsing or pondering, you should do so tucked away in the cosy window with a warm coffee in hand.

I.J. Mellis & Son
I.J. Mellis & Son
Categories
Poetry

Homing

Homing

Jake Roberts

 

Steam breaks the illusory seal

Of calm, leaking from room to room,

Touching, as it goes, the seated ghosts

Who laughed, drank and mused

In this workshop of innocence,

This Russian-doll chamber where treaties

Or whispers fused, mingled and died. 

 

Rising through the open window to taste

The conversations of a thousand 

Nights before, when new faces

Clasped each other in delight 

And giggled with tipsy camaraderie. 

Quiet cigarette butts sit distant in-kind,

Soliloquies lost in each smoking tide.

 

Rising to the meeting place up the stairs:

Chapel for tired souls who outlast 

The bullish revelry. Here in daylight

We seek the same salvation;

Our enclave’s knitted hearth

Is company, a collage of people-past

Watch the scene from the gallery.

 

Through the mist, dinner for two or three,

We pilgrims, magi, who dine on talk

Await the plating of news we heard

Last week but need confirmed

And eat until our jaws ache.

The slippage of time, the wander back

Lit brighter than before our mass. 

 

Like homing pigeons, we loop to return.

Not to conclude, nor speak

A final truth, but to nurse

The warmth, the beginning, 

The Great Moving Upwards;

Nurse our joys, our untruths, 

Our temporary selves. 

 

Built to grow out of, loved in embryo, 

deserving of youth;

The end looms, we love faster.

Categories
Reviews

Lord Emu, The Rocking Horse Sessions

By Ed Osborne.

I asked Lord Emu about their new album at their last gig on Sunday 29th January. They told me it wasn’t finished, and they didn’t know when it would be ready to be released, but two days later, on the 31st, it was out on Bandcamp.

Either their producer pulled an all-nighter, or the band were being sneaky and deliberately playing down the hype. Whichever it was, I don’t mind – I’m just happy to be able to listen. The Rocking Horse Sessions is a collection of demos recorded live at the (sadly soon to be demolished) Rocking Horse rehearsal rooms, and – so they tell me – a precursor to a full studio album. You might have heard a few of these 8 songs if you attended our collaborative event with DH1 Records, which the 4-piece headlined. In my write-up of that night I praised the chemistry and showmanship of their live set, and this album reiterates why they are some of the most entertaining performers in Durham.  

In recording all 8 songs live and releasing them without any fanfare or social media marketing, Lord Emu have played to their strengths as a popular live band amongst Durham’s music scene, whilst managing to avoid layering the songs with too many studio effects that might have spoiled their magic. Despite the straightforward instrumentation (guitar, bass, drums, and the occasional piano) and the recording equipment used, The Rocking Horse Sessions sounds professional – every instrument has its place within the song, the mixing is beautifully clear, without the crowding of endless overdubbed guitars, and the backing vocals add another layer without ever becoming cliché. And that is without even talking about the songs themselves.

Every riff, every chord, every hit of the drums, is relentlessly in-time, something incredibly hard to do when recording entirely live. There’s no doubt that a good deal of the songs’ cohesiveness is down to Luke Pocock’s drumming; I can’t imagine the hours of rehearsal it took to get everything sounding so tight. Despite this, each title is followed by ‘(live demo)’, as if Lord Emu are modestly understating what they’ve accomplished on this album; songs like ‘More than a Meditation’ don’t sound like a live demo, they sound like something you’d hear on rock radio or a festival stage. The song is my personal favourite from the album, with an earworm guitar riff that hasn’t left my head for weeks. After the halfway mark, the band switch from a catchy alternative rock song to a fast-paced heavier instrumental, which revolves around George Brown’s virtuoso guitar riffs. I think it would’ve been more interesting to see them build off the existing motif, but when the song still sounds this good I can’t really complain.

George Brown’s valuable presence is felt on the rest of the album too; as well as intricate solos, his keyboard playing adds another dimension to the band which lets them explore even more genres. The recordings have also shone a spotlight on vocalist/guitarist Dillon Blevins’ unique voice, which is sometimes hard to hear amidst the distorted guitars and furious drumming of their live sets. Their vocals on glam-inspired tracks like ‘The Glass People’ and ‘Afraid To Go Home’ have traces of David Bowie’s early melodramatic inflection, and can shift to a tuneful and powerful falsetto at any moment. Elsewhere, on the album’s heavier punk songs, his voice has a raspy, full-bodied quality which matches the rest of the band’s energy – ‘The Scoundrel Express’ and ‘In Your Corner’ sound just as frenetic here as they do live.

Despite the overall strength of the album, Lord Emu saved the best till last. ‘Uninspired’ is a 7-minute amalgamation of genres, beginning as a riff-heavy metal song before switching to a more contemplative bridge that builds into another excellent guitar solo – a transition that reminds me of ‘Free Bird’. As the solo gets more chaotic the drums shift to match it, and eventually all instruments give way to a melancholy piano and a power-ballad final chorus where Dillon gives one of his best vocal performances, lamenting the difficulties that come with creativity. I wish I was as ‘uninspired’ as this.

Lord Emu’s debut album veers unpredictably (in a good way!) between any and every subgenre of rock like the most erratic rocking horse you’ll ever sit on, and gives no indications of where any song could go next. It’s incredibly fun to listen to, and I’m sure it was just as fun for Lord Emu to make. Also, it’s available on Bandcamp for as little as £2, all of which will help the band turn these songs into a studio album, so why not buy it? Definitely a better way to spend your money, rather than wasting it in Jimmys.

Instagram: @lordemuband

Bandcamp: The Rocking Horse Sessions (Live) | Lord Emu (bandcamp.com)

Categories
Poetry

Crusader Crusader

Crusader Crusader

Anonymous

 

I found you racing in the desert driving a work of art

And pulsing through your veins with the blood of the Lion Heart

My friend it’s later than you think and the light’s about to fade 

And if we don’t start to hurry 

We will miss out on the crusade

They will take psychedelic drugs and drink to the faithful departed 

And sleep with a woman who has no name and leave her broken hearted 

Crusader, crusader, it is you who they despise 

Child of the invader cursed with foreign blue eyes 

My friend they will never understand 

For they have never seen 

How the desert turned to water and 

The ocean turned to sand 

Matador matador hear the crowd as it roars

And they do not know what death is 

For they have never been alive 

Father why should I care

If a thousand dead men die?



Categories
Reviews

Hello, Dolly!

By Jack Fry.

Last week I was lucky enough to attend DULOG’s superb musical theatre production of the Gilded Age musical, ‘Hello Dolly!’. When I asked the producers why they had opted for ‘Hello Dolly!’, they explained that DULOG favoured the musicals of this period in order to appeal to the older, more genteel theatre-going population of Durham. While one may think this could make for a stale rehashing of familiar and old-fashioned productions, the producers outlined their desire to modernise some of its more dated aspects.

The story follows a matchmaker, Dolly, a character most famously embodied by Barbara Streisand in the 1969 film version, as she tries to divert and win the affections of half-millionaire, Horace Vandergelder. She is a woman of all trades, including but not limited to: varicose vein healing, dance teaching, ear piercing but most importantly to the narrative arc, matchmaking. As she proclaims shortly after the curtain is raised, “I meddle” and boy is she good at it! Through smart direction and choreography Dolly orchestrates the stage, sending the chorus one way and the other, making clear to us from the outset who is in control. A larger than life character; she is vivacious, charming, impertinent and independent. Florence Lunnon inhabits her role with confidence as her voice soars between a low New York growl and a beautiful soprano. She also has a knack for physical comedy that repeatedly fills the Gala Theatre with audible laughter.

A standout number, ‘It Takes a Woman’, is initially sung by the character, Horace Vandergelder; the lyrics demonstrate some of the sexist ideals of the time that may have made the audience cringe and that those involved sought to refresh. However, when the song is reprised by Dolly it becomes an empowering ballad of agency. For me, the show seemed a smart commentary on gender roles. The female characters are searching for fulfilling lives and financial independence; they use the constraints and expectations of a patriarchal society and the naive men in their life to their advantage. This theme draws from an era that was pivotal in the development of the women’s movement. Suffrage began to gain momentum in the 1890s and women became more liberated; the Victorian invention of the bicycle, an unlikely ally, also gave women higher hemlines and a new found independence.

‘Put On Your Sunday Clothes’ was also a noteworthy number, anchored by the riotous comedic duo of Samuel Kingsley Jones and Stephen McLoughin as Cornelius Hack and Barnaby Tucker. They were particularly engaging throughout – Kingsley Jones’ performance was impressive and his singing voice was a highlight. The song ascended to a pinnacle of the show when the whole company joined, singing in harmony as their technicolour parasols spun in steam train formation towards Manhattan.

This thoughtful choreography continued with a couple of dance interludes. The dancers appeared most notably as waiters at the Harmonia Gardens Restaurant; their high kicks recalled French cabaret dancers of the era and as their tailcoats spun behind them, their silver trays cast gleaming light across the auditorium.

I was especially impressed by the production value that benefited from a sizable budget, further adding to the polished nature of the musical. The various era appropriate costumes enhanced the visuals as well as the numerous candy striped, art nouveau sets that were presented to us; each one like a scene from a ‘New Yorker’ cover. The only aspect that gave away its student led operation was the youthfulness of the actors playing older characters.

Overall, considered and interesting directing choices by Alexandra Hart and Jennifer Lafferty made for a dynamic and accomplished production with old school charm and jovial melodies, truly a joy to watch. The experience as a whole altered my perception of student theatre – it’s no wonder DULOG has been a permanent fixture in Durham for the past 50 years!

Categories
Creative Writing

The Plagiarised Life of a Durham Student

The Plagiarised Life of a Durham Student

By Elizabeth Marney

ALERT ALERT

You should see my journal, equal parts

gibberish and manifesto babyyy. 

Ahhhh yeahhhh, yup,

catch me strutting the catwalk in all your favourite places,

including (but not limited to) 

North Road, 

the Tesco in Market Square 

and the walk of shame home. 

I mean come on, there’s definitely a naughty list joke in there somewhere

– Merry Christmas my darlings! 

I got some old film developed and it’s giving 2013 Tumblr revival core. 

I’m a city girl forreal and I’m one day clean from being swag

– it’s a pussy night tonight

…. does anyone know if there’s a theme? 

Should I put on some trousers? 

I love giving my friends lots of kisses

and when my actions have zero repurcussions!

I’m on cloud 9 – glowing and growing –

the best of me is yet to come.



 

Categories
Culture

Hanif Kureishi: Tweeting against Time

By Cosmo Adair.

Spare a thought for Carlo Kureishi. After his father Hanif Kureishi’s collapse in Rome on Boxing Day, Carlo has transcribed his father’s thoughts, daily, and published them on Twitter. To write on behalf of an incapacitated father was enough to drive John Milton’s daughters furious—but even they didn’t have to transcribe a fragmented memoir, a meditations-type-thing, with stories involving cunnilingus, sex and drugs. And I know that if I had to hear my father’s lyrical reminiscences about someone he’d shagged, then I’d have slipped something into his food a long, long time ago. So we must thank Carlo Kureishi each day, what he transcribes might feel uncomfortable, but I believe that these reflections are also going to become a definitive work of contemporary literature; and one of the reasons for that is that it’s being dictated by Hanif Kureishi with the knowledge that it could well be the last thing he ever writes. 

On the 6th of January, 2023, Kureishi tweeted, “Dear followers, I should like you to know that on Boxing Day, in Rome, after taking a comfortable walk to the Piazza del Popolo, followed by a stroll through the Villa Borghese, and then back to the apartment, I had a fall.” 

From this moment onwards, his Twitter threads began to weave themselves into literary history. His description, in this first thread, of the moment he regained consciousness is horrifying: “I then experienced what can only be described as a scooped, semi-circular object with talons attached scuttling towards me. Using what was left of my reason, I saw this was my hand, an uncanny object over which I had no agency.” His delayed recognition of his hand expertly conveys his alienation and dissociation from his own body. 

Since then, he has drifted through time, down a now-characteristic stream of free-associations—one marked by a quick authenticity, and by the illusion of spontaneity (each entry is carefully planned, Carlo has said)—and discusses themes as varied as the consistency of Uniqlo trousers, Manchester United, Italian eyebrows, TV soaps, photographs of authors, fountain pens, and the sartorial style of Graham Greene. One entry is even entitled ON CUNNILINGUS, ENVY, AND OTHER MATTERS, and opens, “It doesn’t follow that just because one is severely injured, one doesn’t think about sex. Indeed, one might think about sex more.” From which I deduce that paralysis has not diminished Kureishi’s libido. 

His threads abound with pithy observations: on Hollywood screenwriters, “some are employed just to write the endings of the movies. Others are better at the beginning.. I wonder who writes the middle”; on Italy, “Italy is one of the great gay civilisations of Europe. The Vatican is gay as is the fashion industry. The entire aesthetic of the renaissance is based on polyamorous sexuality.” And then there are the stories: how he learned to type, “I started to blindfold myself with my school tie and soon found I could write the right words in the right order without even looking”; or on the hospital, “In the gym today a man tried to sell me a horse. He showed me a picture of the horse. I can confirm the horse is very pretty. I had to explain to him that my garden in London is not big enough for a horse.”

Kureishi, with only a handful of words, has constructed a voice which is impersonal enough as to be universal, and personal enough to feel real and de profundis. His self-reflections and analyses are the more profound for it. Each time the voice speaks up from its hospital ward in Rome, one can see how Kureishi has shored these fragments up against his ruin: not only that, but through these tweets he is asserting his identity, his presence, how he is still a writer and is hanging on to life as well as he possibly can.  Equally, it is hard not to dwell on what this could mean for the future of Literature. After years of bland, mundane, and downright poorly written, short stories and poems being splattered over Social Media with a tedious importunity, finally there appears to be something noticeably literary appearing on Twitter. More than that, something literary written by one of the previous generation’s greatest talents. And so, whilst Twitter has been the home of political commentary for sometime now, could it possibly be becoming a new home of Literature? After years of bold and prophetic pronouncements that Social Media is bringing about a new age of Literature, finally we have some proof.

Categories
Perspective

Not Yet… And That’s Okay

By Lawrence Gartshore.

Something that is becoming increasingly apparent to me is the fact that certain situations will not, as one continues to struggle with waves of mental illness, feel entirely okay. And that is, equally, entirely, okay.

I have written before about my own personal situation – the fact that I still harbour a great deal of guilt for the way I treated certain individuals during my time plagued by mental illness – and how I am desperately trying to make up for that. I do not wish to rehash this in this particular article – know only that there are specific people whom I still struggle to deal with.

Now I have, since I made this decision to break free from the clasp of mental health issues, found myself slipping back into momentary lapses of depression only when dealing with these individuals. People whom I feel, rightly or wrongly, have been affected most deeply by my actions whilst under the cosh of depression and, as such, have seen our relationships damaged by that.

It has caused me, on a number of occasions, to withdraw from social situations in which we find ourselves in close proximity, fearing that I cannot continue to have a decent time whilst the thick air of our broken friendship hangs in the atmosphere. I write this very article after one such escape.

However, I am also coming to realise that this, whilst seemingly ridiculous, is okay. It is an okay way to think, an okay way to act, an okay way to feel.

I believed that all would be put to rights the second I made the call to cease my depressive state – that all would immediately slot back into normality; back into the way things used to be. I now understand that this is foolish.

I have written before about how depression changes people and relationships, yet never did I truly heed my own writing. Rather did I view it as a distinct, distant, hypothetical – something that touches me, yes, but something I could easily overcome.

Now, I comprehend that this is not the case. It will continue to be tricky to navigate, and these broken relationships will continue to hurt – but what is humanity without pain? Would it not be a far more strange scenario for me to feel nothing towards these people who loved me once?

Yes, this is in fact healthy. It’s also healthy to wish to not hurt oneself any more by staying in close proximity to these people whom you love yet cannot love you back. It is, rather, a great sense of self-knowledge, to understand when one is feeling overwhelmed and, for the sake of self-preservation, to withdraw oneself from it.

It is okay to not always feel okay, and these moments of self-doubt; of depression; of anxiety; are all key parts in healing oneself. One cannot become immediately sea-ready following a storm – one first has to take time to fill in the holes.

Categories
Poetry

Motif for an Unnamed Forty-Year-Old DJ

Motif for an Unnamed Forty-Year-Old DJ

Liz Marney

 

Who are you to make demands 

        three girls 

                 two grams 

too old to die young 

           

You tell me you can be alone 

                     you can drink alone 

      you can think alone 

             but you think you want to take me with you 

 

You think you walk around 

      with morbid finesse 

             decisive      decadent 

not morbidly obsessed 

 

Greying hair glinting against 

     psychedelic lights 

           fingers creeping away 

                  from the decks

 towards unsuspecting thighs

 

You tell me you can be alone 

                     you can drink alone 

      you can think alone 

              but you think you want to take me with you 

 

Turning up half-cut to the school run 

      are you feeling proud 

saying who’s your daddy now 

      to the wrong baby girl 

are you feeling proud? 

 

You tell me you can be alone 

        you can be alone 

            you can be alone 

     but you think you want to 

            take me

                  with you.



Categories
Poetry

Blue Star

Blue Star

Lizzie Walsh

 

They sink into blue

Sweet remembered hue

Wet salt of our eyes 

Cannot say our goodbyes.

 

Cascading downwards 

There are stars in the sand, winking 

There are lives in the sand, dazzling 

Watery constellations 

 

Beloved ones stolen 

Can I say chosen? 

Don’t fight it, accept 

The lost close-kept

 

My sun in blue stars 

Are not these lives- ours?