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Travel

An Insider’s Guide to Prague​

An Insider's Guide to Prague

A view over the River Vltava and up to Prague Castle

By Sophie Hogan.

Buzzing nightlife, cosy cafes and killer vintage finds are only a short flight away. Popular with travellers of all kinds, Prague has so much more to offer than beer and stag-dos. Sophie Hogan gives her recommendations for your next weekend getaway.

 

Where To Stay

 

The Czech capital has long been approved by backpackers and Interrailers, so it should come as no surprise that there are dozens of great hostels to choose from. If you are after a party on a budget, look no further than The MadHouse or HostelOne. For a more chilled place to stay, try The Roadhouse. Alternatively, the apartment options on Airbnb are endless, ranging between all budgets. 

 

Where To Eat

Dim Sum Spot Letna, Prague 7

If you have worked up an appetite walking around the scenic Letna Park, pop into Dim Sum Spot to experience a tasty hidden gem. This place offers delicious, authentic dishes and has an impressive veggie and vegan selection. Reasonable prices and a great, cosy atmosphere make this not one to miss! 

Cafefin, Prague 3

Prague is actually home to a huge Vietnamese community, which is nothing but a blessing for the food scene! Go to the trendy Jiřího z Poděbrad neighbourhood in Prague 3 for an amazing Vietnamese inspired brunch. Honourable mentions go to the pork belly bowl and the banana bread. 

Manifesto Market, Prague 5

If you fancy venturing a little further out of the city centre, check out Manifesto in Anděl. Loved by locals and visitors alike, this outdoor market offers pretty much every cuisine you could imagine and is the perfect place to grab a drink with friends all year round. Although not the cheapest pint you could find, the great atmosphere makes up for it.

Dim Sum Spot, Letna

Where To Go Out

Vzorkovna, Prague 1

This is a place unlike any other in Prague. Vzorkovna, also known as ‘Dog Bar’ after dubious urban legends surrounding wandering dogs, is completely underground. It is a unique maze of bars, live music, DJ sets, dance floors, a shisha bar, table football and even a pizza stall. You will no doubt feel slightly lost within this smoky maze (indoor smoking bans don’t seem to reach this far underground…) but it is a guaranteed 10/10 night out every time. Don’t forget to bring 200czk cash for entry though!! This might seem a little steep, but the money is turned into drinks vouchers for inside. 

Fuchs2 / BikeJesus, Prague 7

Another legendary club in Prague, this is one for the techno lovers. Located on an island on the Vltava river, these clubs provide a night like no other. On the ground floor is BikeJesus, known for showcasing experimental music alongside fireside hangouts in the huge smoking area. Above is Fuchs2, known for its Berlin-like raves. Try to go on a night when both are open for the full experience. If you stay long enough, the sunrise views are extraordinary.

Zazemi 2, Prague 1

This is a personal favourite. Zazemi is a super cheap bar, (a pint for £1.50!!). The huge outdoor area and thumping music should put Zazemi 2 right at the top of your list. Its convenient location in the Old Town makes this bar a great place to pre too. Beware, though, Zazemi is cash only so don’t forget to bring some along!

Electric Sheep Book Bar, Prague 3

Electric Sheep Book Bar became my go-to bar for cheap but exciting cocktails. Located in Prague 3, this spot has a much calmer and cosier vibe than places in the busy city centre. Alongside an extensive standard cocktail menu, they also offer a range of delicious drinks inspired by famous works of literature. The bar offers regular events such as drunk poetry, indie film screenings and book club meetings making it perfect for when you want that community feel.


Dog Bar
Fuchs2, aka 'Bike Jesus'
Vzorkovna aka 'Dog Bar'
Electric Sheep Book Bar

Where To Grab a Coffee

 

Scout Institute, Prague 1

Exploring Prague’s touristy areas can cause some dents in the bank account, so avoid expensive traps by visiting the Scout Institute right on the Old Town Square for a drink and a bite to eat. This place is always buzzing with local students and remains undiscovered by tourists. They also offer up one of the best hot chocolates in the city!

 

Liberica Café, Prague 1

Speaking of hot chocolate, head out of the Old Town Square towards the river to the charming Liberica Café to try one of their infamous Captain Morgan hot chocolates. The cosy, calm atmosphere makes this spot the perfect end to a busy day of exploring. 

 

Cafedu, Prague 2

If you’re looking for a favourite student study spot, check out Cafedu, opposite the National Museum in Prague 2. Friendly staff, mouth-watering drinks and yummy toasties make for the ultimate place to spend a cold afternoon. It is generally pretty busy, but you can make reservations on their website.



HC Sparta Ice-Hockey Match

What To See

 

Letna Park, Prague 7

To escape the more touristy areas of the city, take a stroll across the river to Letna Park. Not only does the park boast one of the best views you can find, but there is also a beer garden in which you can enjoy a pint with a view! 

 

Ice Hockey

If your trip happens to coincide with a HC Sparta ice hockey match, you’re in luck! Ice Hockey is massive in the Czech Republic and tickets can be bought fairly cheaply. This is the best way to completely immerse yourself into true Czech culture – be prepared to get loud!

 

Catch the number 22 tram from Námestí Míru to Pražský Hrad, Prague Castle

Tram 22

Catch the number 22 tram from Námestí Míru to Pražský Hrad, Prague Castle. Hop on and off the tram to enjoy many of Prague’s famous places along the way, including the historic Charles Square. Make sure to purchase a transport pass from the nearby metro station! Once you arrive at the castle, after the winding, scenic journey up, you can visit the castle and the St Vitus Cathedral for free. 

 

Old Town Square, Prague 1

Take a trip to Old Town Square, (Staroměstské náměstí) to see the famous Astronomical Clock. The clock was installed in 1410, making it the oldest still in operation. The square has had a significant role in Prague’s city, dating back to the 10th century. It also houses some of the city’s most impressive Christmas markets during the festive season. 

Old Town Square
Look out for the second-hand shop chain Genesis dotted around central Prague

Where To Shop

 

Genesis 

Look out for the second-hand shop chain Genesis. Dotted all around Prague, each of these shops sell all of their items for a particular price, which can score you some real bargains! I have found some killer winter coats in there for only £3 each.

 

Textile House Vintage Shop, Prague 7

Another really popular second-hand chain is Textile House. The items here are individually priced and often more expensive, but the Textile House Vintage Shop in Prague 7 is a curated collection of amazing vintage pieces, for much cheaper than you might find on Depop.



 

Categories
Culture

Streaming Shakespeare: Could reconsidering our view of theatre soothe funding-cut wounds?

By Sophie Hogan.

The Guardian announced last week that Roxana Silbert had resigned from her position as Artistic director of Hampstead theatre after they suffered a 100% funding cut. Arts Council England withdrew the annual grant of £766,455 that the North London-based theatre had been receiving in an attempt to relocate funding away from the capital. Other institutions that were affected by these drastic changes include the Barbican Centre and the English National Opera. As a result, Silbert decided to step down from her role, and the theatre has highlighted the need for a ‘’change of direction’’, as it will no longer be able to ‘’exist solely as a new writing theatre’’ without the grant. 

The loss of government support for these theatres has been part of a larger scheme of ‘levelling up’ the artistic and cultural aspects of Britain, shifting these creative hubs to more Northern parts of the country. The allocation of funding has and will always continue to be a challenging process for all involved, and there is no doubt that redistributing funding away from the capital city will facilitate the growth of more diverse and accessible theatre. However, it does appear that some venues such as Hampstead theatre have been ‘’devastated’’ by the news. 

Perhaps, then, these funding cuts might push theatres to look towards new, innovative ways of producing plays. Director Simon Goodwin’s 2021 version of Romeo and Juliet embraced the pandemic conditions, creating a play geared specifically towards a television audience. Productions such as these saw huge success during lockdown, with National Theatre streams reaching staggering viewing figures of 15 million, both in and outside of Britain. These methods could continue to be instrumental for theatres in a post-pandemic world, providing greater accessibility at a lower cost for the keen theatregoer. 

It has typically been the responsibility of the productions themselves to shoulder the hefty filming expenses, meaning the theatre for home consumption has mainly been put out by larger-scale shows. However, according to Rupert Goold, artistic director of London’s Almeida theatre, this past summer has seen an increased number of screen versions produced in partnership with companies such as the BBC. He imagines a future which sees digital platforms collaborating with theatres that may be in a similar position to the Hampstead venue, envisioning the industry shifting away from the scarce government funds. He has hope that this could be done but emphasises that it would require ‘’very joined up thinking’’. Could an alliance between local theatres and streaming services solve the problems faced by Hampstead theatre and many others?

Many remain sceptical of theatre-from-home, pointing out the loss of an all-consuming experience that some feel theatre alone provides. There continues to be fiercely polarised debates between theatre purists and those excited by the prospect of streaming, but maybe this is up to you, reader, to decide for yourself. 
I will finish by urging you to watch some of the National Theatre streamed productions, of which a large portion are made available to students through your Durham login. Some personal highlights include: A Streetcar Named Desire, featuring Gillian Anderson and Vanessa Kirby, (2014), Barber Shop Chronicles (2017), and Chewing Gum Dreams, the play that inspired Michaela Coel’s hit TV series, Chewing Gum (also 2014)